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Culinary and cultural delights: a trip to Rome, Naples, and Capri

At the very beginning of May, my two friends and I set off on an exciting adventure to Italy. Our journey began with a flight landing us in the heart of Rome, where we spent two unforgettable days soaking in the city’s history and culture. From Rome, we hopped on a bus to Naples, explored the ancient ruins of Pompeii, and then took a scenic ferry ride to the enchanting island of Capri. Our Italian escape ended with a flight back home from Naples. Though the weather was a bit gloomy at first, it quickly turned warm and welcoming, much like the Italians themselves. And the food? Let’s just say Naples stole our hearts with its budget-friendly yet mouthwatering delights.

Rome Discoveries

Our Roman holiday started with a sightseeing at the city’s most iconic landmarks. I knew Rome was a tourist magnet, but I wasn’t quite prepared for the sea of people. Every famous building seemed like a celebrity, constantly surrounded by its adoring fans, making it a challenge to snap a photo. Our first Italian treat was, of course, a classic coffee and cornetto. The coffee was robust and full of character, much like the city itself, and the desserts were wonderfully indulgent.

For lunch, I had a slice of pizza topped with salami and olives, which was more of a pit stop to use the WC than a culinary highlight.

For dinner we went to Pastaciuta, a small restaurant near the Vatican Museum, where delicious pasta dishes are priced between 6-7 EUR. The carbonara was divine, beating out the pesto pasta by a mile. Be prepared to queue, as the place has limited seating, but most people happily take their meals to go.

Come evening, we decided it was wine o’clock and sampled some local vintages. Italian wine is surprisingly affordable and delicious, and even the cheapest bottles were delicious. 

The next day, we explored the quieter north part of Rome, Giardino delle Cascate, a serene park with lovely fountains that provided a nice escape from the bustling city center. We also visited the Colosseum and snapped a perfect picture from Via Nicola Salvi. For a sweet treat, we indulged in some gelato at Gelateria Artigianale Il Capriccio di Carla Roma Monti.

Discovering Naples

In the evening we took a bus from Rome to Naples. I have booked a ticket 2 months before the trip, so they cost for one person with a selected seat only 3 eur. Upon arrival, Naples train station greeted us with a less-than-charming vibe—messy and a bit unkempt. Our accommodation was nearby, offering a less-than-spectacular view, but it was convenient nonetheless. For dinner, we went to Pizzeria Scugnizzo Trattoria, a no-frills spot that serves up some of the most delicious food! The Margherita pizza, carbonara, and linguine al polipi were absolute winners.

The following morning, we kicked off the day with an Italian breakfast at a nearby cafe, provided by vouchers from our accommodation. Our breakfast consisted of coffee and a croissant, the latter being more doughy than crispy, though its pistachio-flavored filling was delightful. 

After breakfast, we set off for Pompeii, where we rented audio guides near the train station for 10 EUR each. While informative, a guided tour would have been a better choice, as navigating the map and audio guide proved tricky. For lunch, we savored our homemade croissant with Nutella. Bringing your own snacks to Pompeii is a good idea, although there are restaurants available for those who prefer dining on-site. 

Upon returning to Naples, fatigue set in, and we decided against further exploration. Instead, we opted for a leisurely late lunch at our favorite spot, Pizzeria Scugnizzo Trattoria. This time, we enjoyed the Four Seasons pizza, another round of carbonara, and the Spaghetti misto mare, all of which were delightful. The misto mare pasta was especially refreshing, with its fresh flavors shining through.

Later, for an evening of cocktails with a view, we headed to The Vesuvio Roof Bar & Restaurant, where the views were as captivating as the drinks. My personal favorite was the Margarita, a delightful blend of flavors. In Italy, it’s customary to receive snacks with your drinks, which added a nice touch. At around 15 EUR per cocktail, the prices are steep but justified by the exceptional service and stunning views. Do book a table in advance, as the rooftop is quite cozy. The venue has separate sections for those looking to dine and those simply there for drinks.

Captivating Capri

The next morning, after another round of mediocre donuts but excellent coffee, we made our way to the port for our ferry to Capri. The ferry ride, meant to last 50 minutes, took a leisurely 1 hour and 10 minutes—typical Italian timekeeping! We had booked our tickets online but still had to queue at the port to print them, so it’s not essential to purchase tickets ahead of time. Just arrive about 30 minutes early to secure your spot.

Capri is a petite yet picturesque island that can be fully explored in 1-2 days. Its charm lies in its pristine beauty and narrow streets that lead to breathtaking views. Upon arrival, we stashed our luggage in a souvenir shop and decided to walk to the main street, opting to skip the funicular’s long line. Our choice led us up a seemingly endless staircase—quite the workout! But the views, and the friendly cats we encountered along the way, made the trek worthwhile. Still, if you’re not a fan of stairs, waiting for the funicular is the smarter move. Once at the top, we grabbed some arancini, which unfortunately were far from tasty.

Our first stop was Villa Lysis, a place that offers stunning views of Capri. It’s a must-visit for its breathtaking panoramas alone. While the villa itself isn’t particularly remarkable, buying a ticket helps support the island, and it’s affordable at just 2.5 EUR per person. If you’re interested, the booklet available offers intriguing insights into the villa’s eccentric former owner.

We then ventured to the Natural Arch, where we took a moment to enjoy a bottle of wine. Despite being an inexpensive find from Rome, it was surprisingly good.

Our descent was marked by a stop for gelato, which proved to be disappointingly watery and pricey—so much so that even the island’s friendly felines turned their noses up at it. Capri is indeed a haven for cat lovers, with countless friendly and well-cared-for cats who seemed more interested in pets than food.

Next, it was time to check into our accommodation in Anacapri. We retraced our steps to the port and boarded a tiny bus, where we were packed in like sardines—a common occurrence on Capri’s narrow roads. While the ride was bumpy, it was a better alternative to walking. Note that you should buy bus tickets in advance at the stop. Unfortunately, we arrived on a Sunday, when most major supermarkets were closed. Planning a meal in our kitchenette was out of the question due to a lack of ingredients, so we dined at Blue Lizard. Our server, Vincenzo, was a delight, adding energy and warmth to the dining experience. Prices were higher than in Naples but reasonable compared to other Capri venues. The lasagna was a pleasant surprise, both in taste and portion size, while my friends enjoyed a fresh salad and carbonara, both of which were delicious.

Our breakfast vouchers led us to another classic Italian breakfast—coffee and a croissant—this time at Capri Cakes bakery in Anacapri. This croissant was crunchy and totally delicious, a definite improvement over our previous breakfasts.

Post-breakfast, we visited Villa San Michele, a gem with stunning views of Capri. This villa is the life’s work of Swedish physician and author Axel Munthe (1857–1949). Its impressive garden recently won the prize for Italy’s most beautiful private park. Axel Munthe tells the tale of his life and the villa’s creation in The Story of San Michele (1929), one of the first international bestsellers of modern times. The villa also boasts a charming garden and a cafe, perfect for sipping coffee while soaking in the Capri view.

Later, we took the chair lift to the top of Monte Solaro. Unfortunately, it was cloudy at the time, so we didn’t get to see the stunning views.

After our villa visit, we took the long staircase back down to the port. The descent proved challenging, with uneven stones making it a workout for our legs, which were soon shaking from the effort. We stopped at Cuccurullo Aldo for sandwiches that were nothing short of amazing, perfect for our boat trip around the island.

A boat tour is a must, offering unique perspectives of Capri from every angle. We booked our tour with Capri Boat Service, which was enjoyable despite not receiving the promised soft drinks or limoncello. The boat tour included a refreshing swim, a highlight of our Capri adventure.

Following our boat excursion, we sampled lemon ravioli and drinks at Magna cu mme. The place is moderately priced (~20 EUR for pasta) but offers delicious food at prices that are reasonable compared to other Capri coast restaurants.

For our final dinner in Italy, we chose Trattoria Da Pasqualino Di Cappella Salvatore, a modest establishment with a simple interior and affordable yet delectable dishes. Despite a long wait of 40-50 minutes due to having only one server, the food was worth it, especially the tiramisu!

Tips for trip to Rome:

  • Book museums in advance: Start booking about 3-4 weeks before coming.
  • Guided tours are worth it: Choose guided tours rather than audio guides.
    Prepare for crowds: Expect lots of people around tourist sites and be prepared to wait in lines.
  • Use contactless payment: You don’t need to buy tickets for public transport; you can use your contactless payment card.

Tips for trip to Naples:

  • Beware of pickpockets: Stay vigilant and keep your belongings safe.
  • Strong coffee: Neapolitan coffee is very strong, but a must-try.
  • Pompeii tours: Pompeii is more interesting with a guided tour than with an audio guide.
  • Avoid train station accommodations: Consider booking accommodations away from the train station due to noise and cleanliness.
  • Great food options: Naples has many delicious and cheap places to eat, so if there’s a special Italian dish you want to try, go to Naples.

Tips for trip to Capri:

  • Prepare to walk: Capri has many steps and narrow streets, so be ready for lots of walking.
  • Limited Sunday shopping: Only very small supermarkets are open on Sundays.
  • Boat trip must-do: Book a boat trip around the island on your first day; it’s definitely worth seeing the island from all sides.
  • Do restaurant research: Capri is not cheap, so it’s better to research where to eat in advance.
  • Small buses: Buses driving you to Anacapri are very small, so be prepared to squeeze in.

Exploring Rome, Naples, and Capri was an unforgettable adventure filled with delicious food, stunning views, and rich history. From the bustling streets of Rome to the charming alleys of Capri, each destination offered unique experiences and memories. Whether you’re enjoying the culinary delights of Naples or soaking in the breathtaking scenery of Capri, Italy is sure to captivate your heart.

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